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Reading: Assessment of Nearshore Wave Climate off the Southern Coast of Sri Lanka

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Assessment of Nearshore Wave Climate off the Southern Coast of Sri Lanka

Authors:

P. P. Gunarathna ,

Dubai Municipality, AE
About P. P.

Marine Projects Specialist, Coastal Zone & Waterways Management Section,

Eng. (Dr.) , B.Sc. Eng. (Moratuwa), C.Eng., MIE (Sri Lanka), M.Eng. (AIT), Phd. (Clarkson),

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D. P. L. Ranasinghe,

Tohoku University, JP
About D. P. L.

Graduate School of Engineering,

Eng. , BSc. Eng.(Ruhuna), AMIE (Sri Lanka), M.Sc. (Moratuwa), Ph.D Candidate,

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T. A. N. Sugandika

Lanka Hydraulic Institute, LK
About T. A. N.

Engineering Manager,

Eng. Miss. , B.Sc. Eng. (Ruhuna), AMIE (Sri Lanka),

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Abstract

Numerical modeling of wave propagation was carried out to assess the variability of nearshore wave climate off the southern coast of coast of Sri Lanka. The modeling was based on the application of MIKE 21 SW (FM) model in a domain covering the entire southern coast and part of the south – eastern coast of Sri Lanka, with the offshore boundary located in the deep sea. Based on model result, a wave transformation matrix approach was used to transform the available wave data from three past wave recording locations, to desired locations. Swell and sea wave systems were considered separately with appropriate wind fields introduced to model sea wave propagation. The study resulted in the establishment of nearshore of nearshore wave statistics on a seasonal basis for coastal sectors along the model domain. These wave statistics are useful in obtaining necessary design parameters for any planned coastal and marine structures within these coastal sectors through the application of local area models.
Keywords: Waves Sea Swell Nearshore 
How to Cite: Gunarathna, P.P., Ranasinghe, D.P.L. & Sugandika, T.A.N., (2011). Assessment of Nearshore Wave Climate off the Southern Coast of Sri Lanka. Engineer: Journal of the Institution of Engineers, Sri Lanka. 44(2), pp.33–42. DOI: http://doi.org/10.4038/engineer.v44i2.7021
Published on 28 Apr 2011.
Peer Reviewed

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